Miles to Finish: 1715.1
We left Erwin at different times. Charlie woke up early and left at the crack of dawn to catch the proverbial worm. It was many hours before the other slumberers woke up, and after much procrastinating we decided to stay in town for lunch and hike the latter part of the day when it was cooler. An all you can eat Chinese helped sway the decision. Tom missed this as he was late for the bus so hiked off in a grump.He nearly got bitten by a baby rattle snake on the way as he decided to re pack his sack right next to one in the undergrowth. It rattled and Tom thought a beetle was coming nearer to him but as the rattles became louder and more frequent it swiftly became apparent a baby rattler lay within striking distance. Needless to say he bolted up the trail faster than ever before.
Above: 'Gummy Bear' (front) vegetarian turned carnivore since his first taste of meat 2 years ago. He claims his virility has come on leaps and bounds. Vron (behind) is walking the Trail with 2 pacemakers and is over twice our age.
Much confusion as to people's whereabouts followed suit, Michael and Paul caught up with Tom, who was waiting at a shelter for them and they duly hiked the rest of the day in the cooler evening weather. They didn't make the intended shelter before dark where Charlie was waiting.
Duffy decided on night hiking though and together him and Charlie pushed on the next morning. They were in the safety of the next shelter by early afternoon whenupon the heavens opened. Paul and Tom, at an unfortunate disposition were nowhere near the shelter. 10 miles in fact, and were consequently forced to hike through the worst storm to hit us yet.
Thunder and lightning all around with no choice but to push forward as they were right in between shelters. A bolt of lighting hit a tree literally 5 yards from Paul, which completely deafened him in one ear for hours, and another struck later on only about 20 yards from Tom too. It was terrifying and exhausting, and the wooden shack of a shelter never looked so appealing when we finally arrived. Will they learn their lesson to get out of bed a bit earlier to avoid such circumstances? The saga continues...
Above: Levi storytelling 'The Velvetine Rabbit' during the storm that caught out Paul and Tom.
Benevolently aided by a true trail angel by the name of 'Chopsticks' who left cold sodas and snacks as the video below will highlight. A magnificent sundowner was the reward for the wild ascent as they paused in the rhododendrum gardens shortly before the top.
As darkness fell on the moutain peak the storms flashed all around like a city scape on November the 5th, while the clouds above us layed open to behold the beauty of the stars far away from city smog, softly lit by an eerie awe inspiring half moon. The whole day was both mesmerising and exhausting and a stark reminder of our vulnerability to the elements out here and the fantastical power of Mother Nature.
The following morning Tom, Paul and Michael set off up the mountain and they too enjoyed the trail magic at the foot of the beast that was Roan Mountain. Tom was first to reach the top and with great gusto he flew straight past the shelter turning. Paul followed but navigated himself to the shelter as agreed, whilst Michael managed the same route as Tom and shot off down the mountain.
Charlie was enjoying breakfast on top of the mountain retracing steps from the previous night to enjoy the views and get water. On returning to the shelter it soon became apparent that Paul had been waiting sometime and was a little miffed and confused about the others' where abouts.
They assumed that Tom & Michael had descended further than intended. So they left a message in the shelter log and headed down the mountain in eager anticipation. Sure enough Michael was there also a little dazzled but there was no sign of Master Westbrook. Fearing the worst that he had disappeared down another trail we waited for sometime for him to recorrect himself.
In the meantime Charlie ran ahead 'slack-pack' to see if he had gone on over the trail to 'Grassy Ridge'. Hikers up a head had not seen him so after a few extra miles so returned to the others with the news. We waited a little more and by chance a group of hikers who had come from the north identified a match in the form of Tom, and so we continued on our way.
This highlights the difficulty of travelling in large groups on the trail especially relying on communal kit in the form of cook sets and crucially the water filter.
That night we camped prematurely at a beautiful spot and Barn, Over Mountain Shelter. The barn filled up swiftly during the course of the evening and the 6 of us were delighted to see the familiar faces of 'Dwende' (Californian Kevin) 'Always Changing' and 'Never the Same' (Brandon & Jaime) and 'Uncle Kevin'.
A whole school of nurses also arrived and two young lady section hikers by the names of Janell and 'Knackered', ha! A roaring fire was soon underway and all enjoyed a beautiful display of fireflies wich densly ignited the landscape all around like hundreds of flickering whisps of fluorescent fairies swithching on and off, teleporting from fern to tree and tree to rock and crop.
It was magical and something that must be seen to be believed, perhaps as exciting as the Northern Lights for the amateur naturalist. It was superb to be amongst fellow hikers who we could now call friends. Stories and laughter continued on late into the night until the barn was filled with just the chorus of snores common amongst the hikers at nocturne.
And so the sun rose again. 6 am and the barn became alive with eager beavers. And what a beautiful morning and day we had. As we gayly rambled over the Roan highlands we were spellbound by Little hump Mountain and Hump mountain which followed. Enjoying the views back down to the Barn as we left, before quickly reaching a beautiful set of rolling hills above the clouds. All around seemed to resemble the great mountains of the African Congo.
All this beauty was however a little tarnished by rumbling stomachs. We had overlooked our food supplies and perhaps lacked the discipline to ration as would have been sensible. Fortunately there was a resupply point called The Mountain Harbour B&B approximately 10 miles into the days hike.
A little off the trail but within sensible diversion radar we skipped down to sniff out all things sugary- naughty but nice. Pints of Ice cream all around, snickers, pepsi and other such delights & of course a fix of Top Gun whilst waiting and we shot out back to the trail. Charlie estimated he had just consumed over 200grams of sugar and proceded to race the following 9 miles in approximately 2 hours 45 minutes. Flash Gordan would have been proud!
Michael and Charlie, Uncle Kevin and Levi hiked on a little after the next shelter and camped by the river while Paul & Tom enjoyed the free shelter space and company of a few freindly faces.
The following day was an excessive day of hiking and all stirred at dawn to the cuckoo of Kevins belting opera rendition of the Stars and Stripes. Michael and Charlie walked for some 26 miles whilst Mr Smith broke the whopping 29 miler record. He would like to encourage some support at this point for the best mountain man.
However, please give some serious consideration before voting as Paul together with his long hair has now purchased a skirt to hike in. A large day had been planned but perhaps not quite to that extent as will be explained later.
The previous day's hostel was a little brassic in real food resupply offering snacks rather than meals and therefore a quick stop off to another such establishment by the name of Laurel Fork Lodge provided the opportunity and hospitality to kill some pizza and a few hours off in the heat of the day. On leaving Tom decided to remain behind and get a bed for the night as he was feeling a little under the weather.
The aim to reach Damascus by Sat 14th seemed a little much on poor form. On our way to the base of the delightfully intervening obstacle, Iron Mountain (another 2000 footer) we enjoyed Laurel Fork Falls for a swim.
We began the climb a little late in the day which led once again to anothe night hike. Levi's repition of' "i plan everyday to get to the damned shelter before dark, but once again i've done it" amused us all whilst we belted out songs along the way.
Our destination of the Watuga damn shelter was a little over shot, partially to be blamed for poor signage but perhaps by some very weary eyes and feet & the dilema of having to guide Paul with a semi sprained ankle over fairly rocky and rooted train sans head lamp.
Believe me although the extra 3 miles seem trivia, moving at the pace of snails and under hair raising concentration, it is fair to say that exhaustion had crept in by the close of play. That night, too tired to erect tents or cook food we collapsed on the damn and slept in the open. A little surreal but amusing as im sure the picture demonstrates- hiker tramps!
Our overshoot of the Watuga Damn shelter posed a knock on water shortage situation. After such a gargantuan day & with no food after hiking that night we all felt a little drained. The following few miles to Vandeventer shelter were a little delerious and parched to say the least & when we finally reached a spring there was much cause for jubilation.
Fed and watered Levi, Duffy and Paul pushed on aroused by the prospect of Damascus for breakfast. Kit and Charlie collapsed some miles earlier to prepare for a longer hike in the following morning, whilst Tom was still planning to arrive on the Sunday whilst he recooperated. Storms swept over the mountains all day & yet another lightning strike incident which had struck a party of 3 just after lunch.
But with a few last miles to complete, the leading party crossed over the Tennessee/ Virginia Border and then into the beautiful town of Domascus. Belated celebrations for Pauls birthday were underway within minutes of arrival. Charlie & Kit joined later that evening together with 'Tron', 'Hop-a-long', 'Hong Kong Fui', 'Cheech' and 'Chong'. We partied like one does on a stag do, needless to say we were going to take a couple of days off.
Above: The morning mist highlighted by the emerging sun.
The organic farm was a taste of serenity hidden deep in the heart of the North Carolina Mountains. Together with the help of Sean and a few old friends and staff, Elmer had built his dream abode in the heart of the forest.
