Thursday 29th May - Monday 2nd June in HOT SPRINGS

Above: Sean
Below: Elmer

Above: The infamous Snake Gripper in the local library.

Above: An old sketch of the house that is now the Sunnybank Inn.

Hot Springs is a very cosy little town on the trail, with extremely hospitable locals. We were told by Adam at Neel's Gap to stay at Elmer's house - The Sunnybank Inn. Easily the best place we've stayed and we ended up staying 5 nights! 15 dollars a night for Thru-hikers (hikers who are attempting the trail in one go). He himself thru-hiked about 30 years ago.


Being a vegetarian himself he cooks up a 3 course vegetarian meal, with most of the ingredients having been produced on his organic farm. It was exquisite and gave us some much needed nutrition. Paul however, who has a huge dislike to any form of vegetable, didn't share the others enjoyment of the meal. One of Pauls claims to fame is living off ONLY doner kebabs, with no salad or veg, for 2 whole weeks! Water and beer provided the necessary liquids. Paul appeared to have a slight loss in appertite during our stay although his malardie was cured by a daily visit to the steak diner across the road.

During one of the many conversations with Elmer, we were left rolling around in stitches by a legend of a bygone British hiking duo a few years back. Late one night after leaving Hot Springs the two Brits stumbled into a packed shelter after dark. With agitated moans and groans a local hiking party were forced to rollover to make space for the rude and late coming foreigners. Eventually after there rustling and clumsy comings and goings the din once again returned to peace and quiet.

That was until a couple of hours past, when one of the brits woke up to some rustling at the back of the shelter. He switched on his torch and low in behold there at the very back of the cabin pottered a badger striped large rodent boasting a large and fury white tail. Naturally this obscure looking creature of the night appeared quite innocent to the ignorant brit and so in a rather grumpy gesture he hurled his walking boot across the many laden bodies towards this black and white intruder who had rudely aroused him from a deep sleep.

And so retaliation began. In an instant the fluffy white tail became erect and with that what can only be described as a weapon of mass destruction ignited into action. Within seconds all 10 hikers, 8 Americans and 2 ignorant British were covered head to toe in the most putrid and highy toxic of amonia one can possibly experience. The stench was unbearable and so in the middle of the night the entire party were forced to flee off the mountain and into town.

Nausea and vomiting a plenty they finally rolled into town only to be turned away from the first few hotels. When one finally allowed them in to use an old bath house it was suggested that a large quantity of tomato juice was required as the body in which to bathe. One by one the bathed themselves in the tomato juice until the stench was finally removed. Similarly the local laundret was fully booked for the entire day whilst every single piece of kit was washed and rewashed until finally the stench was expelled. International relations between British and Americans on the trail took some time to recover. God bless the Skunk!

During our stay at the Sunnybank Retreat we were able to spend some time working up at Elmer's organic farm, in the garden and mucking in at meal time with the dishes which paid for the breakfast, dinner and nights stay.

The organic farm was a taste of serenity hidden deep in the heart of the North Carolina Mountains. Together with the help of Sean and a few old friends and staff, Elmer had built his dream abode in the heart of the forest.

Whilst on the farm Charlie discovers a spider...

An attempted interview Mr. Toad of Toad Hall.