Wednesday July 20th - Tuesday 5th August

Distance Covered: 175 miles
Miles to finish: 1325.7 miles

The break in Blacksburg was an unexpected surprise. All the people that we came across couldn’t have been more welcoming and fun. Andrew and Jake were real gems to put us up during our stay there. The hosts, Katherine, Adam, Tommy and Ryan were great fun. They put on a cracking spread, excellent activities and downright shinanigans. We have come away with many fond memories and a great fondness for the place, somewhere where we intend to revisit when we finish the hike.

It was a real shame to leave Paul behind and he was sorely missed over the next couple of weeks. Adam kindly drove us back out to the trail to Craig Creek, where we had left off. After a short hike to a nearby camping area we were greeted by the rumbling of thunder in the distance. With all our gear freshly washed and dried it was a real pleasure to wake the next morning positively drowning in an inch or two of water actually inside the tent, whilst all of our belongings were saturated and muddy. Despite a few moans and groans we got off to a relatively early start, stiff upper lip and whatnot.

At about lunchtime we came across the ‘Audie Murphy Monument’. The monument is a tribute to the late Audie L. Murphy, the most decorated American combat soldier of World War II who died tragically in an airplane accident in 1971. In 27 months of combat action in World War II, Murphy became one of the most decorated United States combat soldiers of World War II. He received the Medal of Honour, the U.S. military's highest award for valor, along with 32 additional U.S. medals, five from France, and one from Belgium. Some of you may know Murphy later became an actor, appearing in 44 American films and he also found success as a country music composer. Next to the monument layed stones piled high signifying peoples respect towards him over the years, something that was very touching.

That evening we arrived into the Pickle Branch Shelter. The usual menu had been scrapped as a ‘special’ was up on the blackboard. Charlie had gone down to the river to pump some water and to his surprise he discovered a ‘pygmy lobster’ attacking the pump tube. He naturally swiped it for the pot and then proceeded in hunting for its friends. After an hour or two of hunting, 3 reasonably plump Crawfish found their way back to the shelter. Growing up most people’s parents will always drive home that commanding phrase, “Never play with your food child”! However out here in the woods entertainment and dinner seem to go hand in hand and besides, there wasn’t anything good on television that night… And so the Pickle Branch Races began, not too disimilar to the Cheltenham Festival’s Gold Cup atmosphere and excitement. It was a cracking race and hats off to this year’s winner ‘Albacore’ who’s prize fund stood at $1,600,000. Not bad for the rank outsider at 7-1 odds. He tasted as sweet as the owners return although could have done with a bit more meat on the poor old chap. ‘Chicken of the sea’ and ‘Blue Fin’ were completely outclassed but all finished within a good time. To accompany our Shellfish we enjoyed wild water cress, a cracking combination complimenting well the garlic. We will be on the lookout for more of these tasty morsels up the trail. Hikers and Hunter Gatherers, all in the spirit of the true Mountain Men.

The next morning we hiked to a beautiful spot known as ‘Dragon’s Tooth’. We were able to dry out our gear there and tuck into a hearty lunch whilst enjoying some breath taking views up to the top.

‘Hearsay’ had caught our attention as we had heard countless recommendations of ‘The Homes Place’, Catawba. Our only predicament was a lack of cash between us at the time and a working bank card. We met a chap at the tooth who once again urged us to seek out the cuisine at the Homes Place but we explained we would have to miss out this time around due to our frustrating predicament. Without hesitation he pulled out a wad of cash and insisted on our going. It was inconceivable generosity, completely unexpected and so we would like to thank that kindly soul, whomever he may be.

The food certainly lived up to the expectations especially after a lengthy power hike to the restaurant to catch last orders. We had planned to hit the next shelter a mile or two up the trail but our rotund bellies after such a hearty & delicious meal encouraged camping in the restaurant grounds after the owner kindly gave us the ok.

The following morning we rose early only to be greeted by the milkman with some fresh orange juice compliments of him & best wishes ‘up the trail’. Honestly it is remarkable how well supported we hikers are from the surrounding communities of the Appalachian mountains. That day we hiked for 22 miles from Catawba into Daleville and enjoyed some of the most beautiful scenery since the Smokies back in Tenessee. ‘McAfree’s Knob’ and ‘Tinker Cliffs’ wowed us, something the photographs will animate better than written explanation once again.

Michael found the eye of the tiger deep within his soul at McAfree’s knob. He commented, “Macafee’s Knob was a deeply Spiritual experience”. Our hike into Daleville was under the cover of darkness for some miles and with a head lamp down it was tricky to navigate up and over the ridge and down into town. It seemed that sans headlamp, Charlie showed impressive navigating up front and from this new ‘superhero’ talent a trail name was born; “Night Vision”. Thanks to Mum for all the carrots over the years.

We stayed at a motel in Daleville that night so we could drop into the Outfitters the following day for a couple of minor kit repairs and to make a few phone calls whilst reception was available. We hit the trail running just after lunch as Storms had been forecast that evening. After dinner that night at Fullharet Knob shelter, Michael had gathered wood for a rip roaring campfire.

As we relaxed in the shelter and with no sign of bad weather we were soon disturbed by unwelcomed company. A nest of Yellow Jackets had been disrupted from sleep as the wofts of smoke blew straight into the shelter and up into the roof’s beams. We are glad to inform you that despite a nasty injection of venom to the small left finger, Tom the brave soldier has fully recovered. As the fire died down most of the yellens’ went back from wence the came. A few dosie half drunk ones taunted Bear, whilst Michael managed to salavage a half decent sleep unphased due to his elaborate armour.

Like every Sunday morning we woke up and went to Church, of course. After morning prayers we slogged into Buchanon as Dr Iain Darby aka Gez was due to stop en route from Washington DC to Knoxville with his girlfriend Sarah. It was great to see them especially Gez again since we had last stayed at his pad in Tenessee back in May. They had a long drive and so the catch up was kept short and sweet. Much to our amusement Michael had got a little lost before the hitching point, perhaps an extra 5 miles hiking which ensured he missed Gez and Sarah and indeed the enormous pizza which the rest of us had devoured down to the final crumb. As Gez and Sarah drove off in the roaring Mustang, Michael appeared from the dust cloud hungry and forlorn only to be gravely disappointed with his misfortune.

Gez has been kind enough to let us use his address to forward on mail and packages with kit etc which has been an immense help and weight of our minds. Thank you once again from us all!

That night Bear, Michael, Tom and Charlie stayed at the local motel helped out by Jimmy and Larea Baber who kindly drove us there, a little ways out from town. Bear’s mother Barb and sister Ally arrived the following afternoon and swept us off back into Roanoake not far from Blacksburg to meet Andrew, Paul and Katherine for dinner. It was so nice to be reunited with everyone, in particular Paul. Barb treated us all to dinner and a hotel which was simply wonderful, whilst Ally had baked an array of deliscious brownies and cookies for all to enjoy. The Mullford family have showed us so much kindness, love and generosity. Our thanks cannot be extended enough.

Bear drove us back to the trail the following morning early doors. We waved him off and look forward to meeting up again up the trail as we leave Bear and Ally to spend some quality sibling time hiking through the Shenandoah’s. Due to a road closure we couldnt hike until about 6pm due to an idiotic artic lorry driver attemting to squeeze around a series of hairpin narrow mountain corners, the second case in three days. We had to wait until 6pm before we could get a lift back to the trail but cruised the 6 miles back to our tents before dark. Charlie caught his first glimpse of a bear, Tom and Michaels Eleventieth of course but a magical moment it was, shortly followed by a Copperhead which was about as close to a a strike as they come. For those of you who scrutinise the blog a video of a pedestrian serpant near collision earlier on the trail was actually a case of mistaken identity. We can assure you this really was a copperhead not the harmless Brown Snake.

When we arrived into camp we had dinner, attented to the winding down chores, made a fire and chilled out. It came back to Tom that the 29th of July was the peak of the Southern Delta Aquaroids Meteor Shower. We lay down our mats on the road corner and sat back to enjoy the shower. Awesome evening occasionally interuppted by cars beaping their horns not quite understanding out being there which was cause for much amusement. About half midnight Tom became quite withdrawn from conversation for a few moments and then began to snore. And so we retired to camp and the fire.

Ticks can be a nuisance in summer.

The next stop was Glasgow 28 miles north of Buchanan. We had arranged for new cartridges for our water pumps to be posted up to us because out of the 3 we'd bought only one was half working, all within a matter of weeks. After we read the instructions we found out that pumping muddy water has disastrous effects and the pump will soon be clogged up and unusable. Lesson learnt to read the manual.

We met a young girl, her brother and Grandparents along the way who were quick to tell the story of the previous days events. It turned out the young girl had been charged by a large 400 pound black bear and if it weren’t for a ranger coincidentally walking by she would have surely been killed. She seemed unphased by the encounter and showed a deep interest to hike the A.T. one day. Respect assured and relief that the national newspapers had escaped such a close run tragedy!

After our resupply and laundry we overlooked leaving behind a set of tent poles. We tried to hitch back until near midnight but gave up after a few hours of frustrating thumbs out. It seems as our facial hair gets longer the more suspicious we look. Perhaps a shave would aid our luck?! Below is the rather strange monument that lies in the centre of Glasgow.

We also stumbled upon the most decadent privy the trail has yet to offer, as Tom explains in the video below...

The following few days were tough. Massive climbs and descents through the sweltering mid summer Virginia heat so Tom and Charlie hiked well behind chatting away and reminissing about bygone school days and university. Michael marched on unaware of the loitering and took a nap at Punch Bowl shelter mid way to our agreed destination, slightly off the trail rendering it a possible unintended stop off. When shelters are located significantly far off the trail often its not worth stopping in to avoid the time waste of the extra walk. Michael woke up sometime after arriving and presumed Tom and Charlie had hiked past and onto the next shelter and so he went on. A little after Tom and Charlie arrived for lunch and a quick break only to fall asleep for 3+ hours making the agreed shelter too far. We agreed to hike out early the next morning before dawn , leaving Michael a little confused.

At 5am they woke and pursued Michael hoping to catch him who was still unsure of their whereabouts. He had in fact hiked on expecting them to have gone on further but soon realised he was ahead. Tom and Charlie hiked a gruelling 27 miles up and down some of the biggest climbs of the trail and in the peak of the midday sun. Our intention of hitting the shelter beyond was not an option for their tired dehydrated and malnurished limbs. The Blackberry’s were amazing and we met some wonderful people over those few days including Jason the Ornathologist aka Wolf Horse and his dog Wutuzi and the “the Nuns” who have been section hiking since 1996, who were a joy to meet.

Above: "The Nuns"

Below: "Jason the Ornathologist"

With time on ourside before Paul was due to meet us in Wainesborough Tom & Charlie took a Zero in the woods and took the liberty to go to Montebello to the Dutchhouse bed and breakfast, where they enjoyed a cracking nights sleep and a hearty breakfast. The owners were very keen on wildlife and to Tom and Charlie’s amazement the porch entertained a whole flock of humming birds.

Montebello to Harpers Creek resulted in a late Nighthike after we had to attend to a few website issues. Tom and Charlie rose early and hiked 22 miles the following day to Paul C. Wolfe shelter just a stones throw from Waynesboro. After a late start they faced another even longer and certainly more eerie night hike. Charlie saw a rather large bear just 20 yards from him, his first racoon just a few feet away and had a dance off with a rattle snake that actually chased him, whilst Tom disturbed another large bear in a bush within just a few feet. Arriving at the shelter was a huge relief.

That night Tom woke up to a mouse feeding in his beard and ultimately in his mouth. He had encorporated this occurance into his dream which seemed as though some chap was pushing against his jaw in his lucid state. When he woke the horror roared around the moutain like a Tarzan jungle roar. He flung the rodent far away not before it had bitten his lip and had left a putrid fur taste in his mouth. Good times!

Michael had waited for us at Rusty’s hard time hollow some 17 miles before unbeknown to the others or he of their location. With the help of the internet and email Tom and Charlie managed to track Michael down and the legendery Rusty came to pick us up from town and take us back to the Hollow.